Post by Warren and Toni Draughn on Dec 17, 2009 20:05:27 GMT -5
Hmmmm. Since the block is now super shiny, ever thought of no paint, use several layers of clear coat..... WOW! It will look like a disco ball sitting in the truck with all the details you're putting into it reflecting off all the faceted surfaces. That would be wild...not to mention if you placed a light onto it for display purposes.........another thought, neon glow sticks would really make that effect even more "MAD CRAZY". (grin)
You are really pouring the coal on the head of steam you've built up on this one, Tony. (again) Hmmmmm. Another good name for the project besides "Lost Wages" could be Tony's "Magnificent Maniacially Malicious Mazda" (heavily sustained tone on the "M"s like on a Monster Truck race advertisement). (grin)
Post by Warren and Toni Draughn on Dec 19, 2009 23:34:06 GMT -5
I've thought a little more about how shiny you've gotten that engine block, Tony, and I wanted to explain the clear coat idea a little further.
There was a N/IHRA certified 8 point roll cage system that I did a few years ago on a 2000 Pontiac Fire Bird STREET CAR (licensed, insured, and daily driven by the wife for all errands and work) that had a HUGE amount of performance equipment crammed into the engine bay. It had an all-aluminum competition prepped Corvette engine, supercharger, inter cooler system, 6 speed auto trans with special electronic shifter for drags, and nitrous system all set up on a TRW computer management system that could be set from an attachable laptop that was designed to run on pump gas[/i]. Take about "Mom's Taxi" in disguise (Mastif in a Terrier body). WOW! The paint was just as impressive with enough layers of clear coat that your reflection looked almost 3D when you looked at it.
Unhooking all the electronic and electrical connections from all of the aftermarket equipment, OEM items, stripping the necessary interior items to accomodate the job, masking all the glass areas to prevent slag damage, and then reversing the process back to ready-to-go is a whole Break Room thread alone, so I'll skip that part (grin).
The tubing shipment that I had in stock at the time was about the clearest and cleanest tubing that I've ever had with it completely clean and no imperfections showing at all. This tubing almost appeared polished in the rack so I took extra care with the welds and temperatures to minimize the discoloration at the weld areas. I even used a propane torch to pull the temper and color back into the tubing at the seams to bring the untouched appearance back.
After a lot of thought, the owner decided against using colored paint on the bars and elected to clear coat them instead.
I **HAVE** a BUNCH of photos of the interior before my old hard drive crashed and can't access them now. I still have the crashed hard drive if I can find someone locally that can install the disc's into a working hard drive. All information and files are still intact, the arm that tracks across the disc surfaces is what failed on the unit. Sort of like having a turn table arm get broken and just need to play the records on another turn table.
The Effect and Affect was unbelievable. That was the neatest cage job that I've ever seen that really shocked the senses when you looked at it. You just have to see it to appreciate how well it turned out.
He entered it in many car shows where he used something like an ancient Christmas outdoor light that folks used to make the front of their houses pretty with a flood light and a multi-colored plastic disc on a rotator that changed the colors as the disc turned. The changing colors from the light reflecting on the bars was even more impressive.
Just a thought after all the hours of hard work you put in "super cleaning" the block to be almost chrome in appearance.
A photo tip: Turn the flash on your camera OFF. You have to use several soft white (frosted) bulbs located at several angles to illuminate the block without creating a direct reflection on the light source. You can also use halogen flood lights with a white sheet hung in front of them to diffuse the light also. It will take a LOT of diffused lights to get the exposure level right, but it's just part of the difficulty of getting the shots you want with no direct light reflections. That way it gets as close as you can get to seeing it with the naked eye.
Sometime pictures just do not do justice to the quality of workmanship like you've accomplished here. From taking MANY photos of shiny surfaces, I can tell that this block is super reflective on all surfaces. I'd hate to know how many actual[/i] hours you really put into this part of the process alone (grin). Lots harder than sharpening the ol' double X knive the "old timer" way (grin).
"What is, IS. What ain't, AIN'T. Until it IS, it AIN'T."[/i][/color][/size]
Not much going on with this project as of late due to the fact that I am trying to get things together on my open wheel 4 cyl for (what is now) this year and the weather is miserable. I did get a new compressor, water separator and, guages for the air ride. Maybe one day I will get this thing on bags.
Post by Warren and Toni Draughn on Mar 4, 2010 0:23:54 GMT -5
(grin) We know from first hand experience how hard it is to keep more than one project going at one time in addition to maintaining a home and homelife. We do this every single day here at the shop with several projects going at one time.
With only what we know of the new addition to the dirt racing program you are building, you've definitely got your hands full, Tony. Just don't get confused and install the air ride on the dirt car.......wait a minute......Hmmmmmmmm. Nah! Better not go there. (grin)
Thanks for the additional step in the project for the readers.
Post by Warren and Toni Draughn on Mar 4, 2010 12:38:09 GMT -5
I've seen and used some of the sophisticated on-board control systems for the air bag systems that have the 4 independent corner adjustability with pressure gages and electric fill/relief solenoid valves that have the spring loaded three position lighted rocker switches to burp each corner up/down to the desired pressures. In other words, IN-CAR adjustabiltiy.
Like I said before. Hmmmmmmm!
And, again, NAH! Better not go there. (grin)
The systems I've installed a couple of time was for a remote (-AN steel braided hose connector) nitrogen accumulator systems to adjust the strength (lb rating and dampening effect) of the nitrogen shocks on the car while in use. It wound up being just a little to complicated and delicate to make adjustments while being tossed around in a late model to be effective. Kinda' like trying to thread a needle on a bucking bronco. Now, that's a vivid thought. (grin)
Another time was on an full spec "Baja", 6,500 lb division, 1984 Jeep Cherokee (photo on the "WAll of FAME" here at the shop office going over a 30' jump) with King remote nitrogen accumulator struts on it. The struts were 4 inches in diameter, 48" at full extension, and just over 18" of travel. Between them and the cantilever suspension I built, the truck had over 24" of suspension travel available. Same deal of being able to adjust the struts while in motion. Had to use the BIG nitrogen tank and regulator mounted inside the truck cage system for the volume needed on all four of the HUGE struts. Even the nitrogen accumulators were about the size of two coffee cans put together.
VERY nice progress and equipment going into the project truck, Tony. Looking forward to seeing the finished product in person (photos never do justice to such workmanship).
Keep on hammering.
"What is, IS. What ain't, AIN'T. Until it IS, it AIN'T."[/i][/color][/size]
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